Riverside Serenity in Bangkok

As the former deputy editor of Holidays with Kids magazine, I’m often asked for suggestions for family-friendly hotels in Bangkok – somewhere affordable, in a clean and safe area, close to transport and shops, and somewhere where the children can be kept occupied while the parents indulge in more adult pursuits (and by that I mean eating, dozing by the pool, sitting at the bar... you know.)

One property which I never hesitate to recommend – and where I’ve personally stayed on several occasions - is the old Bangkok Marriott Resort & Spa, which offers the perfect combination of style, family-friendly amenities and a great, breezy location on the west bank of the Chao Phraya River. It’s probably the closest thing to a true ‘resort’ in Bangkok, a chill-out oasis in 11 acres of sprawling tropical gardens, seemingly worlds away from the hustle and bustle of the city, yet only a leisurely 20 minute boat ride from the excitement of the Big Smoke.

Now rebranded as the Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort & Spa (both Marriott and Anantara hotels in Thailand are owned by the same company, Minor), the hotel has been spruced up in typical Anantara style, with one wing already refurbished and a complete overhaul well underway. While there’s nothing wrong with the original Marriott rooms – they were always spacious, comfortable, and beautifully decorated in traditional Thai style – there’s no denying the new rooms have that ‘wow’ factor, with muted, contemporary Thai silk furnishings, backlit mirror panels, etched ancient Thai inscriptions and makha wooden floorboards. The sort of rooms you walk into and coo, “ooh, nice!” – particularly the Deluxe Premier Rooms with river views.



Lobby and atrium areas have also been redesigned, with two quirky new indoors gardens – one a Japanese zen design, the other a Polynesian tiki theme – lending a touch of the bizarre. There’s a swish new fitness centre and club lounge; while in the past six months two of its signature restaurants – Benihaha and Trader Vic’s – have been given subtle aesthetic upgrades without fixing what ain’t broke. And with such a wide choice of eateries – including top-notch Italian at the extremely yummy Brio – there’s really no need to venture off the property for a good feed.

Having said that, there’s a cute new innovation called Streetwise Guru, where guests can join a local expert in discovering the delights of street food, trawling the sois and markets of Bangkok in a tuk-tuk, secure in the knowledge that their guide has the best interest of their stomachs in mind. A great introduction to one of the city’s unsung delights, and a fantastic experience for first-time visitors to Thailand.

While Bangkok regulars might baulk at Anantara Riverside’s location on the Thonburi side of the river, I find its isolation one of its most appealing features. There’s always something mesmerising to stare at on the working river, while it always seems to be a couple of degrees cooler in the tropical garden, river thermals negating the choking smog from across the way. And if you do want to head into town for a meal or shopping, regular shuttles ferry guests across the river to Saphan Taksin pier and the Skytrain in just 20 minutes. Not ideal for a big night out on the town, perhaps, but for families, there’s no more pleasant way to travel.

And of course, the Anantara Riverside boasts one of the nicest pools in Bangkok – not the swishest or most modern, perhaps... but what a location, what a view, an oasis of serenity which screams “I’m on holidays!”




http://bangkok-riverside.anantara.com

The Colours (and Shopping) of Phuket

It’s a well known fact that Thailand is a shopper’s paradise, but until recently I was a little underwhelmed by the retail therapy opportunities in Phuket. To me, its roadside markets seemed a little tired and ho-hum, a motley collection of unflattering beach wear, faux hilltribe crafts, bad designer copies and shirred cotton dresses that look like they’ll fall apart after one wash, all sold under the guise of holiday bargains.

But while I do to some degree lament the ascendancy of mall culture in Thailand, I must admit to being a massive fan of the Jungceylon Shopping Complex in the heart of Patong. Not only can you escape the tropical heat to shop in air-conditioned comfort here, but everything a bargain hunter would ever want is within its 200 stores, from handicrafts to international designer goods, all at brilliant prices. 

Here you can also indulgence in a Japanese facial, which seems to have become somewhat of a Phuket specialty, with at least three similar salons competing for business on the ground floor. My favourite is Takashi, where sweet, mask-clad girls lay you on a high-tech bed, stroke your hair, cover your face with a cool white cloth, then set about steaming, cleansing (with a bizarre vaccuming device) and purifying your skin, all for a special promotional price of 300 baht (for about 30 minutes)

*NB – there are also Takashi salons in Bangkok, Pattaya and Chiang Mai, in Central Airport Plaza.

I was also pleasantly surprised to discover that Phuket has its own burgeoning cottage industry, the art of batik. This oriental artform has been adopted by the island, and adapted with its own unique colours, designs and methods of production, with bright tropical flowers and marine themes a specialty.

Unlike in Indonesia where wood blocks are used to create uniform patterns, Phuket’s colourful designs are freeform, with artists painting the colours directly onto natural fibres. A synthetic bees wax is used to contain the liquid, creating pure, crisp lines and allowing the intense colours to stand alone.

The artform was apparently introduced to the island by a Javanese art instructor,  Adjaan Chuchart Ravichan, who, while teaching at Phuket’s local college, began experimenting with painting bright floral and underwaters scenes onto cotton. “The quality of light on Phuket is very bright. I wanted to capture the vitality of nature, both the tropical vegetation as well as the corals and fish that surround the island,” he’s quoted as saying.

One of Adjaan’s students, Chai Chansongsang, carried on his legacy, selling batiks on the streets then approaching local hotels who agreed to put his beautiful sarongs, shirts and scarves in their gift shops. And so a new industry was born, with the artform employing many local people in several workshops on the island. Khun Chai has also become somewhat of a local celebrity, designing batiks for members of the Thai and Dutch Royal families, and having his batiks featured in fashion shows in Europe. His fabrics also greet tourists as they arrive at Phuket, his colourful banners blowing in the breeze outside the international airport.

For tourists who’d like to learn the art of Phuket-style batik, there are free workshops available at Khun Chai’s shop, Chai Batik on Chao Fa East Road, located midway between Phuket Town and Chalong.

Two Sides to Phuket

Phuket – so beautiful, yet so ... meh. I want to love Thailand’s largest island for its beautiful, white sand beaches, its balmy blue water and its jungle-clad mountains, but it’s hard to see beyond the deck chairs upon deck chairs occupied by floppy, leather-skinned sunworshippers, not to mention the sleazy girlie bars, choking traffic and over-development.

That’s one corner of Phuket, at least. Unfortunately that’s the corner most Australian visitors see, centred around the hub of Patong. And let’s face it, a holiday in Patong is as much an institution for fun-loving Aussies as New Year’s Eve fireworks or the summer test cricket. Sun, beach, beer, chicks – Patong is bogan central, and proud of it. Party all night, sleep all day, get yourself a Southern Cross tattoo ... what an awesome holiday in exotic Thailand.

OK, I’m being a bit harsh, but Patong just isn’t my cup of tea. Nor is Kuta, or Kings Cross on Saturday night for that matter. I appreciate a party as much as the next person, but to me, the essence of Thailand is nowhere to be found in Patong.

Outside of this strip of chaos, however, there are so many gorgeous pockets of tranquillity that it’s easy to imagine the Phuket of yesteryear, before the condos and taxi mafia took over. Sitting on a wooden swing under a tree on the northern beach of Mai Khao; sipping organic, locally grown chilled coffee at a hilltop cafe; watching gibbons in a jungle sanctuary; chilling in a beach bar built into a banyan tree (Ska Bar at Kata Beach – awesome!) or paddling through the silent hongs of Phang Nga Bay on a sea kayaking trip. Even Phuket Town is a fascinating place to wander, admiring the restored Sino-Portuguese houses, indulging in a massage at Kim’s Massage (one of my faves) or dining out at Ka Jok See, the best night out on the island.

                               (the view from Tung Ka, the hilltop cafe in Phuket)

I also recently discovered the tranquility of Cape Panwa, located on a south-eastern peninsula about eight kilometres from Phuket Town. There are a couple of gorgeous resorts here; the friendly, rambling Cape Panwa Hotel, with terraced suites and pool villas overlooking a coconut palm-lined beach and an original Sino-Portuguese mansion (now a top-notch Thai restaurant and function centre); and the chic and stylish Sri Panwa, with each designer villa boasting private plunge pools and heavenly views of the Andaman Sea. This haven is a reminder that you don’t have to be too far from the action to find peace and exquisite beauty – it’s all about harmonious planning and respect for the environment.

(the divine Sri Panwa)

If you do insist on staying in the heart of Patong, however, you don’t have to completely sacrifice your sanity. The Duangjitt Resort and Spa is right in the thick of things, but its 36 acres grounds are so lush and spacious that you’d never know the buzzing throng was just down the driveway. Popular with tour groups and families, this resort features three tropical pools, a cute mushroom-shaped kids’ club, a beautiful day spa and a choice of rooms styles, from family suites to villas. Everything you need for a happy holiday, all just staggering distance from Patong’s nightlife and its jam-packed beach. Horses for courses, of course of course  – but in this case, the horses at least will be well fed, watered and rested.

                                            (One of the pools at Duangjitt Resort)

www.duangjittresort-spa.com

www.sripanwa.com

www.capepanwa.com

Thailand Wish List

Another year, and 365 more excuses to visit Thailand! My resolution for 2012 is to spend considerably more time in the Land of Smiles, perhaps to even live there for several months, gathering material for my blog. And with so many gorgeous pockets of paradise to explore, I think I’m in for a busy year!

Here’s what’s on my Thailand wish list for 2012:

Trang: Give me powdery white sand, turquoise water, a hammock strung between two palm trees and fresh coconut juice, and I’m a happy camper. My quest to find Thailand’s most idyllic beach will undoubtedly lead me to the southern province of Trang, where a cluster of islands form part of the Hat Chao Mai National Park. Koh Ngai (technically in Krabi province) Koh Kradan, Koh Libong and Koh Mook all appeal to my inner Robinson Crusoe, while there’s 119 km of mainland coastline where the jungle meets the balmy Andaman Sea. On Koh Mook, I’m told the star turn is Tham Morakot, or the Emerald Cave, a lagoon surrounded by soaring limestone cliffs located at the end of a 80m cave tunnel accessible only by kayak or swimming (surely a challenge for the claustrophobic, like yours truly!); while Koh Libong is apparently one of the last remaining bastions of the elusive dugong.

Nan: Having just gained my scooter licence (see my previous blog), I’m itching to hit the road to explore the misty mountains of northern Thailand. The remote eastern Lanna province of Nan is being touted as the new Pai, combining ancient heritage and natural beauty with the colour and vibrancy of ethnic hill tribe cultures. As well as numerous temples to admire, the region offers jungle trekking, white water rafting and visits to Hmong, Khamu and Thai Lu villages, each with their own unique handicrafts and cuisines.

Koh Phangan: Hard to believe I’ve never actually been to this island, famed for its backpacker culture and Full Moon Parties. If it’s anything near as beautiful as neighbouring Koh Tao, I can’t wait ... and I have no qualms about roughing it along with kids half my age in a rustic bungalow, enjoying the hedonism of beach by day, bar by night. But then again, there is a new Anantara resort on the island, which may be worth popping into for a dose of luxury...

Koh Kood: My favourite discovery of 2011, I constantly daydream about a return visit; chilling in the sun, strolling barefoot along palm-lined Bang Bao Bay or floating in that gin-clear water. With very little development, and no traffic, taxis, ATMs or shopping centres, there’s nothing to do on this island gem located in the Gulf of Thailand but relax, swim and recharge your batteries. Tropical bliss, and a difficult one to top.

                              (The beach at Bao Bang Bay, Koh Kood. @ Julie Miller)

I will keep trying, however – and of course I’ll be writing about my experiences along the way. So Happy New Year, and keep checking in for my weekly dose of inspiration, Kao Jai style!

High Tea? Yes, Please!

High tea. If these two little words fail to pique your interest, then clearly you’re not female, gay or one of those rare creatures, the sensitive male. But if, in fact, you are in the majority that delights in delicate, beautifully-presented goodies and fragrant teas served in fine china, then listen up! I’ve found one of the most alluring places to enjoy this charming girlie tradition, in the last destination you’d expect – Thailand.

Located on the far side of the Ping River on Charoenraj Rd in Chiang Mai, just up the road from Riverside Restaurant, Vieng Joom On Teahouse makes quite the statement even before you enter the doors. The hot-pink double-storey building with gold detailing stands out like a beacon, heralding the ornate interior and its overwhelming colour scheme – pink. Which is not surprising, considering the name actually means Pink City. Barbie, eat your heart out.

Beyond the gorgeous tea shop selling blended teas and accessories lies an intimate lounge area spilling out onto a glorious garden terrace, protected from the elements by a pink silk-draped canopy. Groups of girls – both foreigners and Thai - sit chatting and laughing on comfy sofas and wicker chairs surrounded by burbling water features, while couples enjoy the romance of the river view on wrought iron tables shaded by umbrellas. If there’s a prettier place to laze away an afternoon in Chiang Mai, I’m yet to discover it.

The passion of a Chinese-born, tea-loving owner, Vieng Joom On offers over 50 blends of tea, from Indian masala and chai to locally-concocted brews such as the fragrant Chiang Mai fruit tea, blending rose hip, apple bits, hibiscus, rooibos, almond bits and vanilla. Teas are served hot or iced, the latter served in tall elegant glasses and bearing enticing names such as Lady in Red and Lavender Lemonade.

While an extensive menu offers vegetarian meals and desserts, most customers indulge in the teahouse specialty, high tea. Presented on a triple-level platter, it features petit fours, a selection of mini cakes, assorted sandwiches and fruit salad with strawberry dipping sauce, served with your choice of tea. At 495 baht for two, it’s not the cheapest meal in Chiang Mai, but the presentation, the ambience and the undeniable beauty of the experience makes it a worthwhile treat.

www.vjoteahouse.com

53 Charoenraj Rd

Chiang Mai

Elephants and Tourism #2

In my last post, I wrote about my discomfort in watching elephants perform in a staged environment, and shouted the praises of tourism ventures that showcase elephants' natural abilities to entertain, just by being themselves.

I do want to clarify, however, that I was not questioning the standard of care given to the animals at FantaSea or any other elephant show or camp. It was very apparent from watching the elephants in the FantaSea show that they were happy, well-adjusted and pampered animals, who did not appear stressed by their starring role.

Below is a statement provided by the management of FantaSea explaining the level of care given to their animals, which I think is worth sharing with my readers.

"Phuket FantaSea is committed to providing quality products and services to our guests, a fact that I hope is evident to you during your visit. The same also applies to the way we operate our business and manage our human and animal resources. Animals are regarded as our 'superstars' and treated with respect as one of our colleagues. Our elephants enjoy one of the best facilities offered in the country, if not in Asia. Each of our elephants is cared for by over 3 dedicated mahouts 24 hours a day, a costly yet necessary practice for us to keep our standard of animal care. During day time, the elephants are taken daily to the FantaSea-owned jungle next to our premises where they can roam freely (guarded by the mahouts) and at night, they stay in a spacious holding area (each having its own quarter) that boasts a huge common exercise ground, CCTV security system, shower area, a pool, clinic with full time vets, and other facilities. The food we serve our elephants is always of good human-consumable quality and mostly grown and harvested in our own farm or bought from respectable suppliers. It is also not known to most guests that we own many times more elephants than needed in the show, which means our elephants enjoy rest, day-offs and sick leaves and are not the least 'overworked' in any way.

The same standard of practice also extends to all animals, big or small. The tigers are well cared for and fed with high quality meat and supplements. We intentionally keep our tigers naturally thin and healthy, and not 'cuddly' and obese as most human guests think tigers should be. The display area where guests see the tigers is just a temporary 'play and snacks area' for the tigers. They are moved here each day to swim and play and have snacks (which are introduced into the display area via several trap doors). After 3 hours, they will be moved to their actual holding area which is a much bigger place, with a common area and a pool. As for your concern on the camera flashlights, please be assured that they do not cause harm to the tigers in any way. (With the lighting inside the tiger area and through the thick acrylic separating the tiger and human area, the flash lights actually lose its intensity and do not cause any harm). "

 

I personally find this information very reassuring, particularly in regards to the tigers.

 

The bottom line for animal lovers visiting Thailand is to consider your choices carefully in regards to wildlife-based tourism. Keep an open mind, taking into account the complex situation regarding the place of animals in an urbanised environment. Seek out operators who provide their animals with love, respect and quality care. And spread the word about those who are doing a great job as caretakers of the precious creatures inhabiting this planet.

Elephants and Tourism

A few weeks ago, I finally went and saw FantaSea, Thailand’s largest and most spectacular cultural theme park and the most popular attraction on the island of Phuket. I’ve managed to avoid going for years – big stage shows aren’t really my thing, and as an animal lover and anti-circus advocate, I was uncomfortable with the notion of watching performing elephants.

It is indeed an amazing, over-the-top and mind-blowing show, very much aimed at the mass market (the auditorium holds 3,000 people, packed to capacity every night). It’s colourful, dizzying and loud, with firework explosions that had me leaping out of my seat with profanities. (Why is it, for such a gentle race of people, do the Thai’s love loud noises so much?! Really!!) The park where the performance is located is spectacular in itself, a Thai Disneyland with neon lights, shops and shows. And yes, there is a large cast of elephants, showcasing their dexterity, intelligence and ability to please crowds.

The elephants are indeed the stars of the show – and in keeping with that, these animals are well cared for, well fed and pampered. However, true to my initial reservations, I admit to squirming in my seat when the elephants performed in a ‘chorus line’, standing on their hind legs and ‘dancing’ to rapturous applause.

This, of course, is a natural talent, one they are capable of doing in the wild. But to see it in a regimented, staged arena was, for me, a little confronting. Similarly, I’m also not particularly comfortable with watching elephants play soccer, paint or play polo (despite my well-known love of this sport) – all skills they perform graciously and happily for their human audiences.

In an ideal world, I’d prefer to watch elephants – and indeed all animals – just be themselves, doing what comes naturally for their own benefit, not that of humans. But this is not an ideal world – these elephants are domesticated animals, not wild, and therefore need to find their place in human society. And nowhere is that situation more complex than in Thailand.

The elephant has played an important role in Thailand for centuries, a crucial partner in war, industry and daily life. Many of Thailand’s 4,000-odd domestic elephants have a one-on-one relationship with their mahout owners as lifelong companions and treasured members of the family. But elephants are cumbersome creatures, requiring space to roam and mountains of food, each one hoovering over 200 kilos of food a day. Elephant ownership is expensive – and the reality is, an elephant has no choice but to contribute to its own upkeep.

Traditionally, the elephant was a beast of burden, largely employed in the logging industry; but since that practice ended in 1989, finding a suitable and ethical role for these beloved creatures has been both difficult and controversial. When logging ceased, many unemployed mahouts resorted to begging in the streets, taking their animals into the smog and traffic of big cities to eke a living. This, of course, is a less than ideal environment for any animal, let alone an enormous, sensitive elephant who is physically designed to forage in a jungle, not camp alongside freeways.

With begging now officially outlawed, the challenge is for a mahout to find a role for his elephant that is as lucrative as begging, but more beneficial to himself and his animal. Which is where tourism comes in.

Tourism – whether it be trekking or performing in shows like FantaSea – now provides the bulk of the work for Thailand’s domestic elephants, and is arguably the best, kindest and most beneficial form of work for these animals. As long as the animal is treated with respect, a job in tourism is low-impact on the animal, generally with reasonable working hours and minimal energy required. The elephants in FantaSea work for approximately an hour a day – surely better than tramping the streets for 18 hours day and night. And usually a working elephant is rewarded with a solid feed at the end of the day, rather than a begged banana and food scraps.

However, as more and more tourists (particularly Westerners) demand more ethical treatment of elephants, so the emphasis is shifting from standard jungle treks and animal shows to less invasive, more natural and lower-impact forms of tourism, ones that are kinder and less exploitative to the animal. Interactive “mahout”-style experiences, where guests can learn first-hand about a mahout’s lifestyle and relationship with the elephant, are becoming particularly popular; riding bareback behind an elephant’s head, rather than perched in a rickety wooden saddle, is not only more comfortable and fun, but also a great way of communicating directly with the animal.

There are several excellent elephant camps leading the charge of happy, holistic elephant tourism ventures. The Golden Triangle Asian Elephant Foundation, located in the grounds of the Golden Triangle Anantara near Chiang Saen, has provided a new life and livelihood not only for 30-odd rescued street elephants, but also for their mahouts and families who have relocated to this tranquil oasis. Lampang’s Elephant Conservation Centre has an excellent mahout-training school; you can also learn the skills of the mahout during three-day homestays at the Royal Elephant Krall and Village in Ayutthaya. I also recently heard about another intimate program at Patara Farm, just out of Chiang Mai, where you can be an elephant owner for a day – an experience which comes highly recommended and which I can’t wait to check out.

One of my favourite places to watch elephants simply being elephants is at the Elephant Nature Park in Chiang Mai, home to elephants rescued from a life of abuse and mistreatment. The day and week-long volunteer programs here include feeding and bathing the elephants, but no riding – these poor animals, whose individual stories will reduce any animal lover to tears, can now just be, no longer burdened by work and cruelty.

And what could be more entertaining than just sitting watching elephants play in water and mud, trunk wrestling and just hanging out, free and unfettered? For me, this is the most rewarding and enjoyable experience of all, just watching them be elephants – the most adorable, amusing and intelligent animals on the planet.

That’s a ticket worth its weight in gold, surely the greatest show on earth.



...or ...




You be the judge which is more entertaining!


Further info:

Fantasea - www.phuket-fantasea.com

Golden Triangle Asian Elephant Foundation – www.helpingelephants.org

Elephantstay – www.elephantstay.com

Patara Farm – www.pataraelephantfarm.com

Elephant Nature Park – www.elephantnaturefoundation.org