Happy Elephant Day!

It's National Elephant Day in Thailand!

Here's to a safe and happy future for Thailand's elephants, off the streets and living in natural and holistic environments where their well-being is paramount!

To celebrate, here's my favourite happy ele photo, taken at Elephant Nature Park in Chiang Mai...

Pic: Julie Miller

Thailand's Sun Bears in New Book

Forgive the shameless self-promotion, but I'd like to draw your attention to a new book about to hit bookshops on April 1.

Called 'Free the Bears', it is the auto-biography of Mary Hutton, founder of the Australian wildlife charity, Free the Bears Fund. I helped Mary write her book, and have a co-author credit.

The book tells the story of how an ordinary Perth grandmother started a charity from scratch and has subsequently made a huge difference, facilitating the rescue of hundreds of captive and abused bears in South-East Asia and India. From collecting signatures outside her local shopping centre, to creating a million-dollar charity responsible for the care of over 500 bears now living in FTB-supported sanctuaries, it's testament to the power of passion, dedication and putting beliefs into action.

One of Free the Bear's major undertakings was the creation of a bear sanctuary within the grounds of Lop Buri Zoo in Thailand. Before FTB's input, the bears in this zoo were kept in awful cages, barely big enough for them to move in. They now have a lovely enclosure with a pool, climbing equipment and access to sunlight, grass and trees.

FTB also supports bears at the Wildlife Friends of Thailand Rescue Centre near Hua Hin. Run by Dutch wildlife warrior Edwin Wiek, this sanctuary rescues injured and abused wild animals such as gibbons, leopard cats, slow lorises and even tigers, with an emphasis on rehabilitation and re-release into the wild. The 10 badly injured or disabled bears, however, have a permanent home at the centre, safe from further abuse and the dangers of poaching. 

'Free the Bears' by Mary Hutton and Julie Miller is truly an inspiration read, a must for any animal lover and supporters of wildlife charities. It also gives some insight into Thailand's stewardship of its native wildlife, which is controversial at best and frustratingly appalling at worst. But above all, the book presents a message of hope - that anyone can facilitate change if they truly believe in a cause.

'Free the Bears' by Mary Hutton and Julie will be published April 1 by Pan MacMillan. Available in any good book shop.

Thailand Etiquette and Survival Tips

After years of blunders (and much kind forgiveness by Thai people), guest blogger John Borthwick has compiled the sort of “Newbie’s Guide” to Thai survival that he wishes he’d had way back when.

POLITENESS 
Thais value good form and politeness, so learn a few basic Thai phrases, such as greetings and thanks, and keep in mind the following tips:

Heads and feet. Buddhist Thais see the head as sacred. It is impolite to touch someone else’s, so don’t pat cute kids on the head — try the shoulder. It is equally impolite to point the soles of your feet at someone. 

Royals. Thais are publically very respectful about their royals, even if they have private reservations about the system. The King is deeply revered so don’t make jokes about the monarchy, even “harmless” ones. 

Stay cool. When things go wrong, as they can, don’t lose your cool and raise your voice against a Thai person. Speak calmly and keep negotiating if possible. Thais intensely dislike losing face (or money), especially to a foreigner, so sometimes it’s less aggravation to just button your lip and walk away. 

Temples and monks. Women are never permitted to touch a monk. When visiting a temple (and there are lots of them), dress modestly (this often means no shorts or bare shoulders for women), always remove your shoes, and never point your feet at the altar. 

SURVIVAL AND SCAMS
Despite being footloose and free in the so-called Land of Smiles, we farang (foreigners) still have to watch out for scammers and our own dumb mistakes. 

Road sense. Some 8,000 people die on Thailand roads each year, and April’s Songkran (Thai New Year) festival delivers one of the worst spikes. Minimise your long-distance van or motorcycle travel during peak holidays. If you hire a motorbike, note well that unless you hold a current, valid motorcycle licence (as opposed to a car licence), your travel insurance policy (you do have insurance, don’t you?) will very possibly NOT cover your medical or damage expenses. This is definitely true for Australian policies. And good Thai hospitals are very expensive. 

Double pricing. Non-Thais pay higher entrance fees at most attractions. For example, Thai adults pay 40 baht to enter national parks while foreigners pay 400 baht. It’s much more annoying at commercial attractions. Cough up, and don’t let the discrimination spoil your day. 

Gems. Buyer beware. Regardless of the “certificate,” don’t invest more money on gems than you can afford to laugh off when you return home to have some of them assessed as coloured glass. 

Jet-skis. In Pattaya (and elsewhere) unsuspecting tourists are often extorted by jet-ski hirers who claim that “damage” has been done to their craft. Threats and violence, plus official indifference, leave victims with little option but to pay up, big time. Jet-skis are allegedly “banned” at many popular beaches but still remain dangerously unregulated, a real hazard to swimmers. If you cause death or damage when driving a jet ski, you’re in major trouble. 

Fighting. Thailand is a very safe country, but never get into a physical fight with a Thai (such as a jet-ski operator). Queensbury does not rule here. In the Land of Smiles, they fight to win at all costs, and in numbers. Being a foreigner is no protection; it’s more like an invitation once the brawl begins. And don’t assume that the law is on your side. 

Taxi Mafias. Phuket taxi and tuk-tuk drivers collude in charging passengers absurd fees. Koh Samui has a version of the same problem, with drivers often refusing to use meters; in such a case, set the fare before staring the ride. If possible, arrange an airport transfer prior to your arrival. Bangkok is not a problem in this respect — just make sure the taxi meter is turned on. Pattaya’s “baht bus” (shared pick-up truck) system work admirably: basically, it is just 10 baht for any journey. 

IN GENERAL 
Finally, a few obvious and not-so obvious pointers:

Drugs: don’t even think about scoring anything unless you feel spending the next five to ten-plus in the Monkey House. 

ATM fees: cash machines are everywhere but Thai banks keep 150 baht (approx. $5) each time you withdraw (no matter how little) from a foreign account. And that’s on top of whatever your home bank also charges on the transaction. 

Street elephants: buying bananas from mahouts to feed young elephants that are paraded through the street just adds to the animal’s misery. 

Got all that? OK. Now go have fun.

PICS: Julie Miller

Honeymoon Bliss in Thailand

Australian travel agent Reena Tory and her new husband Nick Terrone recently chose to honeymoon in Thailand. Kao Jai Thailand asked them why they chose the Land of Smiles for their romantic holiday... 

We chose Thailand because we had both travelled there, and loved the people, the landscapes and the food! Since it was our honeymoon, we wanted to see the quieter areas, away from tourist hotspots like Phuket and Koh Samui. After a hectic wedding (and an Indian one at that!) we wanted to chill, explore beaches, relax, and do nothing! 

We spent four days in Bangkok, seven days in Krabi and an overnight stay in Bangkok on our way back from Krabi. In Bangkok we stayed at Vie Hotel - M Gallery, which was the perfect hotel for us. Our main aim in Bangkok was to shop and see temples. Vie is walking distance to MBK. We spent time shopping there - fantastic. We also went to Chatuchak Weekend Market, which was a Skytrain ride away. 

The highlight of our stay in Bangkok was a visit to Ayutthaya. The UNESCO heritage ruins were beautiful. Wat Phra Mahthat, with the famous Buddha face in the tree, is magical. 

The honeymooners at Wat Phra Mathat

Of course no trip to Bangkok is complete without going to the red light district! It's nice to see the lovely ladies say a prayer to their Buddha and king at a small shrine before jumping up on stage and getting their groove on. Religion is everywhere! 

In Krabi we stayed at Klong Muong Beach at Beyond Krabi Resort which is on the mainland. There is literally no one on this beach except hotel guests. You will find mainly European couples and families at this resort. Seaview rooms have unobstructed views of the beach, overlooking the infinity-style pool. The rooms were clean and modern. 

Beyond Krabi Resort

We were interested in seeing nature, and obviously some tours to the islands and kayaking were on our agenda. The 4 Island Tour is a good one which takes you by speed boat to Railay Beach (technically not an island but the only way to get there is by boat!), Chicken Island, Tub Island and Poda Island. This was a short five-hour tour of all the islands, but a good one to do. 

Kayaking was also a highlight at Bor Thor. The guides were fantastic. They understood the environment and educated us about the importance of the mangroves and the limestone caves to the area.

Another day we hired a scooter (I had travel insurance!) and visited Khao Phanom Bencha National Park. Its main attraction is Huay Toh waterfall, a seven-tiered waterfall. Another beautiful gem, and the perfect spot to cool off. Next stop Tiger Temple Cave...1327 steps up a mountain to reach the temple. Definitely worth the hike. Spectacular views of Krabi's striking coastline and huge Buddha statue at the top. 

The main highlight of our trip was the final three nights in Krabi. We stayed at Islanda Eco village resort on Koh Klang. It is a small island that is a five minute boat ride from Krabi Town. Love love love this place. The island has only a one-lane road, and a majority Muslim island with a population of 3000. 

Nick in a tuk-tuk on the beach at Koh Klang

We wish we spent more time here. It is the perfect honeymoon destination, and the staff at Islanda really look after you. The cocktails are amazing, especially at happy hour. It is pretty isolated, and if that's what you want, it's perfect. The villas are very cute, with open air showers. We suggest the ocean facing villas for privacy. If you are after a beach beach, this is not it as the tide is too low to swim. However they have a great pool. 

Honeymoon chilling at Islanda

We took a trip to Phi Phi Island from here, which was really disappointing. After being on this island then going to Phi Phi, it was like going back to Bangkok - a very busy island, thanks to the Hollywood movie filmed there, 'The Beach'. 

We definitely recommend Thailand for a honeymoon! We could have gone with the masses to places like Phuket, but sometimes you have to do the research to find the gems!

View from the Inside #2

Featured artist Chris Chun shares his favourite haunts in his adopted city of Chiang Mai...

Chris contemplating his next meal in Chiang Mai!

- What's your favourite thing about living in Chiang Mai? 

There are lots of great things about living here. The town has it’s own charm and unique vibe. It’s very peaceful – well, with over 300 temples I think it should be, right? The food here is amazing as well as my thrice weekly massages and the cost of living is very cheap compared to Australia. 

 - Can you list your top 5 bars/cocktail lounges? 

Chiang Mai has loads of bars, depending on what you like….not that many cocktail lounges though. I love taking friends to the Chedi Hotel for a drink by the river and 137 Pillars House is a gorgeous hotel to just chill with a quiet drink in the original homestead. House of Wine we love (especially with the tapas bar and French Fry Bar next door). Yokka Dok is lots of fun with the gay boys and the cabaret show at Anusarn Market is a scream!! Monkey Club and MO’c MO’l are great too. 

Jack Bains Bar at 137 Pillars House Pic: Matthew Burns

 - Any favourite restaurants? 

I’m not sure if I want to give away all my secrets LOL. One of the best places for Thai food is Café de Nimman – their fried fish with Thai herbs is the BEST in town but it runs out quickly so get there fast. We love Anchan for their organic vegetarian food. Giorgios is our favourite Italian restaurant with food just like Mama used to make. Wanluman is great for French cakes and The House is a great place to take visitors – chic restaurant and designer boutique all rolled into one. 

 - Favourite way to waste time in Chiang Mai! 

Massage and eating cake – Chiang Mai has a huge sweet tooth and there are lots of great cake shops and patisseries.

Mae Khlong: The Risky Market

Guest blogger John Borthwick, a confirmed non-shopper, makes an exception and goes to market at one known, for very good reason, as “the Risky Market”.
Thais call it Talat Rohm Hoop, the Closing Umbrella Market but for foreigners it is “the Risky Market”. And right now a large train is bearing down upon me as I stand far too close to its tracks.

My Thai friend Sam suggests politely, “Maybe you move back some little bit more.” I fling myself against a wall, flat as a pressed duck, as the train rumbles past, inches away. With a shave this close, who needs a razor?

Minutes before this level-a-tourist crossing event, I was amid a full-on market. Mackerel, brassieres, rambutan, sneakers, chili and nail clippers — all arrayed in a 100-metre long stretch. Down the middle of it, almost unnoticed, runs a narrow-gauge railway. Shade awnings (rhom) completely overhang the tracks, goods of every kind are stacked beside the line and shoppers mill across the tracks.

The train, a two-carriage electric service, rumbles through here four times a day but the stall-holders wait until it is almost upon them to make way for it. The awnings are rapidly pulled back while goods are shuffled aside. There’s such lack of urgency that tourists, awaiting some dramatic warning, are barely aware that the train is upon them.

I’m glad I’m not an elderly, plump Russian or a slow(-er) Aussie. Stand 20 cm too close and you have to leap for your life — as I do. One day though, someone will ... well, you know what I mean. A big, fat, lumbering loco will meets a tourist who’s artistically framing a tray of rambutan through a lens — and, Oh-my-Buddha! Or, as Sam says imperfectly but impeccably, “The train got no wrong.”

The market parts before the train like the Red Sea before Moses, then closes-in again behind the last carriage. The canvas awnings swing back and the goods, sellers and buyers spill right back to where they were. When the train returns later, the seas of commerce will part once more and some other tardy farang again will have to leap like a lizard.

Pics by John Borthwick, risking his life for his art!

All this happens at the morning market in the fishing port of Samut Songkram, also known as Mae Khlong, 80 km southwest of Bangkok. The tiny Mae Khlong-Mahachai railway line is the shortest in Thailand, at just 33 km in length. It starts in west Bangkok at Wong Wian Yai station, is cut by one large river and terminates beside another at Mae Khlong, the “capital” of Thailand’s smallest province, Samut Songkram.

Other than a few curious foreigners, the market is Thai to the max. Among the durian, fresh crabs, steamed mackerel and fried silkworms, we find two-frog satays for a bargain 35 baht — as opposed to 100 baht in Bangkok.

Inspiration of Chiang Mai

Award-winning Australian textile designer and fine artist Chris Chun has lived in Chiang Mai for two years, and finds great inspiration in the northern Thai city. Here he talks about how living in Thailand has impacted on his art.

The multi-talented Chris Chun

- When did you move to Chiang Mai, and why did you decide to move there?

My husband Matthew and I moved to Chiang Mai back in December 2010 and it was our third visit here. We wanted a lifestyle change/ mini sabbatical from Australia and Matthew (an environmental lawyer) wanted to take some time off from the bar to write a book and experience living overseas for the first time. I think we were only supposed to be here for a year!

- How has living in Chiang Mai affected your work?

I am definitely a lot more relaxed and chilled out living here. It is definitely a slower, more relaxed pace of life, probably a bit too much for me! For example, I am still waiting to hear back on a quote from the printers to get some things made and this was over three weeks ago.

I am very inspired by the whole city - nature, colour, textiles and culture here. There is a rich arts and crafts movement in Chiang Mai and there are lots of artisans here doing their own thing which is very inspiring to be part of. I am learning how to make ceramics as well as getting back into printmaking, specifically etchings and silkscreen. I am also doing lots more creative things (like making videos) and not thinking about just making stuff for money.

Cherry Blosson Love @Chris Chun

- What inspires you? Anything specifically Thai?

The flower markets here are incredible. As I paint a lot of flowers, I’ve been walking around to Kamtiang Flower Markets which is just behind my studio to take photos and paint the orchids there. I also think the textiles available here are beautiful.

Details of orchids @Chris Chun

- Is there a vibrant art scene in Chiang Mai?

I don’t know if I would call it vibrant but there is a cool, little art scene here. The Meeting Room Art Gallery is well worth a visit and there are lots of independent ones that no one has ever heard about which are good. The Thais don’t seem to be that pro-active in their marketing and promotion. Unfortunately, there doesn’t seem to be many opportunities for artists to make a living apart from selling their works at the markets but I am trying to help in any way I can.

For more information about Chris, visit his website www.chrischun.com

Tea Garden @Chris Chun