Honeymoon Bliss in Thailand

Australian travel agent Reena Tory and her new husband Nick Terrone recently chose to honeymoon in Thailand. Kao Jai Thailand asked them why they chose the Land of Smiles for their romantic holiday... 

We chose Thailand because we had both travelled there, and loved the people, the landscapes and the food! Since it was our honeymoon, we wanted to see the quieter areas, away from tourist hotspots like Phuket and Koh Samui. After a hectic wedding (and an Indian one at that!) we wanted to chill, explore beaches, relax, and do nothing! 

We spent four days in Bangkok, seven days in Krabi and an overnight stay in Bangkok on our way back from Krabi. In Bangkok we stayed at Vie Hotel - M Gallery, which was the perfect hotel for us. Our main aim in Bangkok was to shop and see temples. Vie is walking distance to MBK. We spent time shopping there - fantastic. We also went to Chatuchak Weekend Market, which was a Skytrain ride away. 

The highlight of our stay in Bangkok was a visit to Ayutthaya. The UNESCO heritage ruins were beautiful. Wat Phra Mahthat, with the famous Buddha face in the tree, is magical. 

The honeymooners at Wat Phra Mathat

Of course no trip to Bangkok is complete without going to the red light district! It's nice to see the lovely ladies say a prayer to their Buddha and king at a small shrine before jumping up on stage and getting their groove on. Religion is everywhere! 

In Krabi we stayed at Klong Muong Beach at Beyond Krabi Resort which is on the mainland. There is literally no one on this beach except hotel guests. You will find mainly European couples and families at this resort. Seaview rooms have unobstructed views of the beach, overlooking the infinity-style pool. The rooms were clean and modern. 

Beyond Krabi Resort

We were interested in seeing nature, and obviously some tours to the islands and kayaking were on our agenda. The 4 Island Tour is a good one which takes you by speed boat to Railay Beach (technically not an island but the only way to get there is by boat!), Chicken Island, Tub Island and Poda Island. This was a short five-hour tour of all the islands, but a good one to do. 

Kayaking was also a highlight at Bor Thor. The guides were fantastic. They understood the environment and educated us about the importance of the mangroves and the limestone caves to the area.

Another day we hired a scooter (I had travel insurance!) and visited Khao Phanom Bencha National Park. Its main attraction is Huay Toh waterfall, a seven-tiered waterfall. Another beautiful gem, and the perfect spot to cool off. Next stop Tiger Temple Cave...1327 steps up a mountain to reach the temple. Definitely worth the hike. Spectacular views of Krabi's striking coastline and huge Buddha statue at the top. 

The main highlight of our trip was the final three nights in Krabi. We stayed at Islanda Eco village resort on Koh Klang. It is a small island that is a five minute boat ride from Krabi Town. Love love love this place. The island has only a one-lane road, and a majority Muslim island with a population of 3000. 

Nick in a tuk-tuk on the beach at Koh Klang

We wish we spent more time here. It is the perfect honeymoon destination, and the staff at Islanda really look after you. The cocktails are amazing, especially at happy hour. It is pretty isolated, and if that's what you want, it's perfect. The villas are very cute, with open air showers. We suggest the ocean facing villas for privacy. If you are after a beach beach, this is not it as the tide is too low to swim. However they have a great pool. 

Honeymoon chilling at Islanda

We took a trip to Phi Phi Island from here, which was really disappointing. After being on this island then going to Phi Phi, it was like going back to Bangkok - a very busy island, thanks to the Hollywood movie filmed there, 'The Beach'. 

We definitely recommend Thailand for a honeymoon! We could have gone with the masses to places like Phuket, but sometimes you have to do the research to find the gems!

View from the Inside #2

Featured artist Chris Chun shares his favourite haunts in his adopted city of Chiang Mai...

Chris contemplating his next meal in Chiang Mai!

- What's your favourite thing about living in Chiang Mai? 

There are lots of great things about living here. The town has it’s own charm and unique vibe. It’s very peaceful – well, with over 300 temples I think it should be, right? The food here is amazing as well as my thrice weekly massages and the cost of living is very cheap compared to Australia. 

 - Can you list your top 5 bars/cocktail lounges? 

Chiang Mai has loads of bars, depending on what you like….not that many cocktail lounges though. I love taking friends to the Chedi Hotel for a drink by the river and 137 Pillars House is a gorgeous hotel to just chill with a quiet drink in the original homestead. House of Wine we love (especially with the tapas bar and French Fry Bar next door). Yokka Dok is lots of fun with the gay boys and the cabaret show at Anusarn Market is a scream!! Monkey Club and MO’c MO’l are great too. 

Jack Bains Bar at 137 Pillars House Pic: Matthew Burns

 - Any favourite restaurants? 

I’m not sure if I want to give away all my secrets LOL. One of the best places for Thai food is Café de Nimman – their fried fish with Thai herbs is the BEST in town but it runs out quickly so get there fast. We love Anchan for their organic vegetarian food. Giorgios is our favourite Italian restaurant with food just like Mama used to make. Wanluman is great for French cakes and The House is a great place to take visitors – chic restaurant and designer boutique all rolled into one. 

 - Favourite way to waste time in Chiang Mai! 

Massage and eating cake – Chiang Mai has a huge sweet tooth and there are lots of great cake shops and patisseries.

Mae Khlong: The Risky Market

Guest blogger John Borthwick, a confirmed non-shopper, makes an exception and goes to market at one known, for very good reason, as “the Risky Market”.
Thais call it Talat Rohm Hoop, the Closing Umbrella Market but for foreigners it is “the Risky Market”. And right now a large train is bearing down upon me as I stand far too close to its tracks.

My Thai friend Sam suggests politely, “Maybe you move back some little bit more.” I fling myself against a wall, flat as a pressed duck, as the train rumbles past, inches away. With a shave this close, who needs a razor?

Minutes before this level-a-tourist crossing event, I was amid a full-on market. Mackerel, brassieres, rambutan, sneakers, chili and nail clippers — all arrayed in a 100-metre long stretch. Down the middle of it, almost unnoticed, runs a narrow-gauge railway. Shade awnings (rhom) completely overhang the tracks, goods of every kind are stacked beside the line and shoppers mill across the tracks.

The train, a two-carriage electric service, rumbles through here four times a day but the stall-holders wait until it is almost upon them to make way for it. The awnings are rapidly pulled back while goods are shuffled aside. There’s such lack of urgency that tourists, awaiting some dramatic warning, are barely aware that the train is upon them.

I’m glad I’m not an elderly, plump Russian or a slow(-er) Aussie. Stand 20 cm too close and you have to leap for your life — as I do. One day though, someone will ... well, you know what I mean. A big, fat, lumbering loco will meets a tourist who’s artistically framing a tray of rambutan through a lens — and, Oh-my-Buddha! Or, as Sam says imperfectly but impeccably, “The train got no wrong.”

The market parts before the train like the Red Sea before Moses, then closes-in again behind the last carriage. The canvas awnings swing back and the goods, sellers and buyers spill right back to where they were. When the train returns later, the seas of commerce will part once more and some other tardy farang again will have to leap like a lizard.

Pics by John Borthwick, risking his life for his art!

All this happens at the morning market in the fishing port of Samut Songkram, also known as Mae Khlong, 80 km southwest of Bangkok. The tiny Mae Khlong-Mahachai railway line is the shortest in Thailand, at just 33 km in length. It starts in west Bangkok at Wong Wian Yai station, is cut by one large river and terminates beside another at Mae Khlong, the “capital” of Thailand’s smallest province, Samut Songkram.

Other than a few curious foreigners, the market is Thai to the max. Among the durian, fresh crabs, steamed mackerel and fried silkworms, we find two-frog satays for a bargain 35 baht — as opposed to 100 baht in Bangkok.

Inspiration of Chiang Mai

Award-winning Australian textile designer and fine artist Chris Chun has lived in Chiang Mai for two years, and finds great inspiration in the northern Thai city. Here he talks about how living in Thailand has impacted on his art.

The multi-talented Chris Chun

- When did you move to Chiang Mai, and why did you decide to move there?

My husband Matthew and I moved to Chiang Mai back in December 2010 and it was our third visit here. We wanted a lifestyle change/ mini sabbatical from Australia and Matthew (an environmental lawyer) wanted to take some time off from the bar to write a book and experience living overseas for the first time. I think we were only supposed to be here for a year!

- How has living in Chiang Mai affected your work?

I am definitely a lot more relaxed and chilled out living here. It is definitely a slower, more relaxed pace of life, probably a bit too much for me! For example, I am still waiting to hear back on a quote from the printers to get some things made and this was over three weeks ago.

I am very inspired by the whole city - nature, colour, textiles and culture here. There is a rich arts and crafts movement in Chiang Mai and there are lots of artisans here doing their own thing which is very inspiring to be part of. I am learning how to make ceramics as well as getting back into printmaking, specifically etchings and silkscreen. I am also doing lots more creative things (like making videos) and not thinking about just making stuff for money.

Cherry Blosson Love @Chris Chun

- What inspires you? Anything specifically Thai?

The flower markets here are incredible. As I paint a lot of flowers, I’ve been walking around to Kamtiang Flower Markets which is just behind my studio to take photos and paint the orchids there. I also think the textiles available here are beautiful.

Details of orchids @Chris Chun

- Is there a vibrant art scene in Chiang Mai?

I don’t know if I would call it vibrant but there is a cool, little art scene here. The Meeting Room Art Gallery is well worth a visit and there are lots of independent ones that no one has ever heard about which are good. The Thais don’t seem to be that pro-active in their marketing and promotion. Unfortunately, there doesn’t seem to be many opportunities for artists to make a living apart from selling their works at the markets but I am trying to help in any way I can.

For more information about Chris, visit his website www.chrischun.com

Tea Garden @Chris Chun

View from the Inside

Over the next few weeks, I'll be running a series of what I call 'insider tips', from either Thais living in Australia or ex-pats who now call Thailand home. First up, Eurblarp Sriphirom, Deputy Director of TAT in Sydney, shares some of her favourite places in Thailand... 

Eurblarp Sriphirom in her new home of Sydney

I'm originally from Bangkok but love all the countryside around Thailand, as each area is different in character. During my childhood, my parents took me and my sisters around Thailand on driving holidays. We did not go abroad and loved travelling in Thailand.

I like the northern part of Thailand because of its serenity and nice people, love the traditional northern food and culture and beauty of nature there. I like to see our history through the architecture and way of life in each town. I like the view of the golden rice fields and the Thai floating houses as well as the typical Thai houses, especially the gingerbread-style houses in Prae and Nan.

I also like to support all Thai products made by local people such as hand-woven clothes, handmade silver and gold accessories from the original places. They are my favourite collections, as I do not like the brand name products much.

Chiang Mai, Nan, Prae and Sukhothai are lovely towns and always in my mind for escaping from busy life in Bangkok. Now it’s very convenient to fly to these destinations and easy to get around in safety. Ayuthaya is also one of my favourite places - our family goes there on weekends for a day trip for making merit and praying in the temples. In my opinion, Wat Chai Wattanaram, located in Ayuthaya, is the second most beautiful place to see the sunset, apart from the Temple of Dawn in Bangkok.

I love Ampawa Floating Market because it recalls the olden Thai period. Old Town Bangkok is also full of my childhood memories and I still go to the temple almost every weekend with my mother to make a merit.

Giving alms to monks on Hua Hin Beach

My favourite beach is Hua Hin because of the atmosphere there. My family goes there every year for a summer break. I do not like the touristic places and try to avoid them. In conclusion I can say that I love slow travel for my slow life, just to enjoy the places and atmosphere that make me calm down.

Chiang Mai on Top

Chiang Mai has been voted the favourite place to visit in Thailand in the 2012 TripAdvisor Travellers' Choice Awards, coming in above Koh Phi Phi Don and Koh Tao in the Top 10 Destinations. The city is praised for its historic sites, street food and elephant experiences, as well as activities such as cooking classes.

For the full list of award winners, click here:

Festival time in Thailand

If any nation knows how to throw a party, it's the Thais. If there's something to celebrate, it's done with a bang (quite literally - the Thais love an explosive or two!), as well as plenty of colour and a great deal of style. And there's no better time to visit Thailand than during festival time, with annual celebrations such as Songkran and Loi Krathong attracting tourists from all over the world.

If you're stuck for inspiration, the Tourism Authority of Thailand has just released its calendar of festivals and events for 2013, featuring a total of 28 colourful cultural events ranging from annual marathons to music festivals and sporting tournaments. Here are a couple of highlights - might see you there!
Trang Underwater Wedding Ceremony, Feb 13-15.
Koh Kradan, Trang Province.

Join 15 couples swearing their undying love in this mass traditional Thai wedding ceremony, held underwater in scuba gear! Now in its 16th year, the event is as crazy as it sounds, but also is a great tool for promoting the beautiful marine environment of the Trang Province. And what could be more romantic than tying the knot on Valentine's Day? Participants must be qualified divers.

www.underwaterwedding.com

Wedding Ceremony on Elephant Back, Feb 14.

Elephant Study Centre, Tah Toom District, Surin Province

Speaking of romance - and Valentine's Day - why not get married on the back of an elephant? The Sud Tai Ceremony is the traditional wedding of the Guay elephant mahouts, with the highlight of the ceremony the marriage registration on the back of an elephant. It is believed that tying the knot on an elephant brings good fortune and prosperity to couples. Not to mention an unforgettable start to a life together!

Songran Festival, 12-21 April.

Nationwide

Songkran is the Thai New Year's Day, which falls on April 13-15 every year. Prepare to get wet during this fun and wild water festival, with a thorough soaking considered a blessing.

Yasothon Bun Bang Fai Rocket Festival, 11-12 May.

Phaya Thaen Park, Yasothon Province

Did I mention the Thais like explosives? In this ancient local festival, the letting off of rockets of Bang Fai is an entreaty to the gods to bless the community with plentiful rain for rice cultivation. Beautiful rockets are paraded to the launch site by local people dressed in traditional costumes, with noisy folk music and cheers accompanying the release of each rocket.

Phuket Vegetarian Festival, October

Muang District, Phuket Province

Held during the ninth lunar month of the Chinese calendar, this annual event is said to bestow good fortune upon those who observe the sacred rituals accompanying the festival. During this time, local people of Chinese ancestry strictly observe a 10-day vegetarian or vegan diet for the purposes of spiritual cleansing and merit-making. Sacred rituals include walking barefoot over hot coals or ascending ladders with bladed rungs.

www.phuketvegetarian.com

Loi Kratong, 18 November

Nationwide

The most beautiful and moving of all Thai ceremony's, Loi Krathong is held on the full moon night of the twelfth lunar month. To celebrate, Thai people release handmade kratongs made from banana leaves, flowers and incense into waterways, creating flotillas of sparkling lights. In Chiang Mai, the celebration coincides with Yi Peng, when thousands of lanterns are released into the sky, a double dose of illumination. Oh, and more fireworks, of course!

For a full list of Thai festivals and ceremonies, download the calendar at http://www.tatnews.org/images/images/images/News%20Release/Thai_event_2013_BOOK.pdf